Jaffna

Sri Lanka’s northern capital is dry, flat, and deeply Tamil in its culture, cuisine, and temple architecture – entirely unlike the rest of the island. The Nallur Kovil’s golden towers, lagoon ferries, and extraordinary northern seafood make it one of the island’s most singular and undervisited corners.
Sigiriya / Dambulla

Sigiriya is a 200-metre volcanic monolith where a 5th-century king built a full palace complex with frescoed galleries and gravity-fed water gardens that still puzzle engineers. Twenty kilometres away, Dambulla’s five sacred caves contain 150 Buddha statues and 2,000 square metres of ancient ceiling paintings.
Kandy

Sri Lanka’s last royal capital sits in a natural bowl of forested ridges around a perfectly still lake, with the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic as its living, drumming, incense-filled heart. Kandyan dance, traditional craft, and a highland cool make it a city that takes more than one day to absorb.
Polonnaruwa

A medieval capital you can cycle through – its compact ruins and irrigation tanks built by 12th-century hydraulic engineers are some of Asia’s most rewarding. The Gal Vihara rock-cut Buddhas, carved with precision from a single granite face, are among the most quietly powerful sights on the island.
Anuradhapura

Sri Lanka’s oldest kingdom is home to a sacred Bodhi tree grown from the original tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment – still alive and worshipped after 2,200 years. White dagobas the size of cathedrals rise from the surrounding jungle, most active at dawn when pilgrims arrive with lamps and flowers.